WHITE Milano Is Back With An Updated Vision, Zooming In On International Research, Enhancement Of The Made In Italy And Culture Of Sustainability
At the February edition, WHITE Milano unveils an important path of renewal to launch a first signal of change. The cornerstones of this strategy are international scouting, increasingly close to the cultures of the different Italian and international territories, the enhancement of the Made in Italy, sustainability as leverage to trigger real change, starting from the textile production chain to reach to the end-users.
Thanks to this rich set of projects, WHITE, from 20th to 23rd February 2020, reasserts itself as the go-to event during the Milanese Fashion Week for those insiders, who now more than ever are focusing on the value of the product, through a targeted brand mix, capable of coming up with innovative proposals for the buyers and the stores, while speaking to the new generations of consumers. The trade show – which is supported by MISE, MAECI and ICE – Agenzia – relies on the partnership with Confartigianato Imprese and the aegis of the Municipality of Milan, and represents the true propeller head of the Tortona Fashion & Design District, covering four locations in Tortona 27 | Superstudio Più, Tortona 31 | Opificio, Tortona 35 | Hotel Nhow and Tortona 54 | Ex Ansaldo BASE, displaying approximately 500 brands.
“In textiles / clothing, Italian exports made € 33 billion in 2019, an increase of 3.8% compared to the previous year” – says Carlo Ferro, President of the ITA – “In this sector, Italy is the third largest exporting country in the world and the first in quality. It is therefore the time to leverage on our heritage and focus on innovation and sustainability, which represent the key success factors to engage the new generations of consumers all over the world. ITA wants to contribute more and more to the enhancement on the international markets of emerging Italian designers, also supporting events of relevant importance, such as White “
Beside the several special projects, WHITE has also decided to focus on the exhibitive layout, undergoing a major revamp involving an increasingly clear-cut, minimalist design, to welcome the visitors and guide them on a journey of discovery of all the new-ins of the show. The overhaul of image of the trade show has also involved a collaboration with Lucia Emanuela Curzi,
a.k.a. Lù, who has created powerful images by crafting unique collages, rich in metaphors and enigmatic messages, capable of inspiring new considerations on vital themes, such as sustainability.
“The collaboration between the Municipality of Milan and White, platform that for twenty years has been promoting excellence and research in international fashion and has elected our city to do so – comments Cristina Tajani, Councillor for Labour, Productive Activities, Fashion and Design of the Municipality of Milan – “A Trade show that is increasingly rich in proposals, with over 500 brands at the February 2020 edition, and capable of selecting the most striking proposals, both in terms of aesthetics and manufacture, with great focus on the sustainability of the exhibiting businesses, a theme very dear to our municipality.”
To shine a light on inclusion and change, WHITE has picked as Special Guest Artsi Ifrach with his brand Maison ARTC – fashion house based in Morocco. The designer is going to display his collection of unique pieces by means of an installation at Superstudio Tortona 27 and an exhibition at 10 Corso Como Tazzoli: a double exhibition to illustrate the incredible imagery and the culture of a territory that is a crossroads of traditions. A powerful message under the banner of contemporary craftsmanship and upcycling, which looks to sustainability and multiculturalism. Artsi Ifrach – following international experiences in Tel Aviv, Paris and Amsterdam, moved to Marrakech to set up his independent label Maison ARTC, which makes exclusively unique pieces by searching for and assembling hand-made vintage fabrics. The very name, Artsi, means “My Country” in Arabic, expression of a notion of multiculturalism in which different cultures coexist without relinquishing their identity. An element that typifies Maison ARTC (menswear and womenswear) collections, based on colours, prints and special details made by skilful craftsmen, who, through their craft imbue each material with a new lease life.
So Artsi: “Climate change and fashion evolutions. This is really the dawn of a new era in which responsibility, sustainability and creativity represent the way to go. To me, future also means going back. Our DNA – founded on the idea of a multicultural society – is the source of inspiration, the starting point to craft our items. It is a way of preserving the past from the present and propelling it towards future. Not only should we think different, we should also design in a new way to act and make real change. MAISON ARTC
recycles all that is old to breathe new life into it. I am really excited about the chance to showcase my work at WHITE, in Milan, with a special installation illustrating my vision to an international audience”.
This edition’s special designer is Palomo Spain, experimental gender fluid brand born in 2015 that merges the Spanish soul of its founder, Alejandro Gómez Palomo, with the metropolitan and sophisticated flair of London, where the designer spent his formative years studying at the London College of Fashion. Palomo Spain is for the first time is in Italy, to showcase at WHITE his collection, which has immediately grabbed the attention of the international press, of celebrities like Beyoncé, down to important stores like Opening Ceremony, the first to have bought his collection for the New York and Los Angeles stores. In 2018 Palomo was the first Spanish designer to be invited by the Federation de the Haute Couture et de the Mode to present his collection in the Paris fashion calendar. Thanks to the collaboration between WHITE and DAAD DANTONE, Palomo will also have a special window display in the Milanese store during the fashion week. The collaboration with DAAD DANTONE goes on at the Basement with the labels Occhii, KQK, Misora Nakamori and Vava Eyewear. A this edition, this legendary section of WHITE comes under a brand-new guise thanks to the presence of a new generation of designers, among which: Vitelli, Banu, collaborations with international cutting-edge showrooms like NOB Showroom, with their highly experimental collections like Dhruv Kapoor, Sonia Olla, Baebclub, V-Design and Duren.
The Special Project in the Basement – as a token of its new style direction – is SALAR Milano, established by Francesca
Monaco and Salar Bicheranloo, who have picked WHITE to develop their trade strategy.
So Francesca Monaco and Salar Bicheranloo, founders of SALAR Milano: “In view of our 10 years’ anniversary, during which, season after season, we have achieved increasingly positive results in terms of brand-awareness on the international marketplaces, we
have decided to undergo a strategic commercial makeover, going from worldwide and multibrand showroom to total internalization and a more direct control on distribution so as to penetrate the showrooms’ market more deeply. This decision has played out on the product creation stage. The collections that we are going to showcase at WHITE, pre-fall and main collection 2021, are a confirmation of the message we have launched over this last year, shedding light on the research of a new, increasingly contemporary and leading- edge image, while staying faithful to the label’s DNA of the brand, acclaimed for its iconic models, the mini bags, true objects of desire, like little jewels for women to wear”
In with the collaborations with the most important and dynamic international names, like YouConcept, showroom and
multiservice integrated agency with a platform specializing in talent scouting, which is going to bring to Milan a dedicated area with a selection of names like Lake Studio, Ernesto Naranjo, Murmur, Cynthia Xiao and Rewop.
“We are proud to be, once again, collaborating with White in this new edition of the Trade Show.” – so Giuseppe Mazzarella, delegate for Internationalization of Confartigianato Imprese – “We are on an international stage in which Confartigianato puts the emphasis on the quality of handicraft firms: 79 thousand fashion craftsmen and small enterprises that employ 372mila insiders and export products for a value of 10,3 billions. Businesses that foster employment, produce excellence, resulting from a mix of innovation and tradition, firms that have elected sustainability as their ethical choice, but also as a factor that the market recognizes and rewards”.
At Tortona 27 Superstudio, the SPECIAL HALLS are venues with a dedicated setup in which the protagonists are a series of Italian and international labels encompassing consolidated fixtures like Sofie D’Hoore, Pierre Louis Mascia, WRÅD, Attic and Barn, as well as a series of Made in Italy labels like Faliero Sarti, Ibrigu, Ermanno Gallamini. Among the the new entries, Tuinch, Belgian brand founded by Veronique Vermussche, who employs the finest cashmere and processes them by means of handicraft techniques: a collection featuring minimalist and contemporary aesthetics. Another special new entry is Davide Gatto Milano, launched in 2012 in a small atelier in via Santa Marta and grown through experimentation focusing on extraordinary combinations of leather, crotchet and macramé wools.
Among the debuting names IZMEE – brand in line with the latest fashion and green trends – displaying at White Show within a new category of accessories that is revolutionizing lifestyle, namely the water steel bottle, whose latest interpretation by the brand IZMEE has turned it into true fashion accessory and has the supplied fashion retail with a new premium proposal, constantly evolving with the changing seasons and fashion trends. A special hall is devoted to IZMEE.
Among the debuts at the show: for the first time in Milan, Ines de La Fressange, the French icon renowned for her essential elegance, who peppers the global wardrobes with a classy Parisian touch. The collection features versatile knitwear garments for informal and effortless elegance. Among the international collaborations, Flanders DC – Flanders District of Creativity – the Belgian platform that supports and promotes the young creative businesses, which is going to showcase at WHITE a selection of leading-edge brands, among which: Marylene Madou, with a collection of exclusive scarves crafted by the designer herself by harnessing her painting talent and digital illustrations; Komono, community of designers that lends the universe of accessories elegant design and minimalist aesthetics based on a proud and outstanding manufacturing tradition; YNGR, brand of bags made from recycled leather; Wright brand belonging to a family that has been making textiles for three generations and now produces ready-to-wear apparel by combining premium materials, feminine and comfortable cuts and exclusive style; RectoVerso sportswear combines technical know-how and luxury design, Moon Games makes, in Belgium, sustainable knitwear and accessories for all seasons.
WHITE is at the side of small-medium enterprises focusing on the quality of an Italian and international proposal. The tradeshow has not only always been the platform to launch new brands, but it also supports the expansion and distribution of already consolidated companies. In a particularly complex historical period, at an international, level WHITE continues its strategy of internationalization of Italian companies, through various areas dedicated to Italian craftsmanship (selected with Confartigianato Imprese at Tortona 31) and the Focus on Sicily project (on show at Tortona 31 – 35). Thanks to the collaboration with the Sicilian Region – Department of Production Activities with action funds 3.4.1 PO FESR 2014/2020.,
WHITE presents 41 brands from Sicily, on display in the Tortona Fashion District. After a long scouting activity carried out throughout the territory, WHITE has identified a panorama of companies and realities with artisan DNA, which are told at the show through a series of photos and videos produced ad hoc by WHITE. The campaigns were shot in Palermo inside two historic Art Nouveau residences – Villino Florio and Villa Virginia Caruso – which were opened for the first time, offering a unique landscape to set the Made in Sicily creations. The photos and videos taken will be also promoted through all the channels of WHITE and some selected media partners.
“We are absolutely delighted to be able to give our contribution and thereby aid WHITE in promoting the young talents from Sicily” so Giuseppe Giglio, CEO of Giglio.com.
To reiterate how the culture and the relationship with Milano are important, at MY OWN GALLERY the photo exhibition “Il Giorno e la Notte” (The Day and The Night) celebrates Milan and a specific apparel item (the coat) through the original works by photographers Mattia Zoppellaro and Sha Ribeiro. The show and the book have been produced by Paltò and curated by Perimetro, one of the most dynamic projects in town, which the trade show is going to be collaborating with in the next editions.
“At a time of great change for a sector that, in my opinion, had to change, at WHITE we are working for the new and for the future, as the considerable effort that has gone into WSM and the next edition of WHITE in February goes to show. An important opportunity that we want to seize for the sake of Milan, which is becoming more and more dynamic and European”, declares Massimiliano Bizzi, founder of WHITE.
INSIDE WHITE
The Inside White hub turns on the spotlight on future generations of Italian and international brands who want to enter the fashion system industry. Thanks to this special area, top buyers from all over the world are here able to meet experimental brands, connecting with the creativity of emerging labels, which have distinguished themselves for style, trend and research. This edition includes: Agarw-Ud (contemporary urban clothing), Melìp (leather bags with essential design and high quality craftsmanship), Nizhoni (luxurious contemporary fashion and homedecoration), Jeff Wan (handmade in Italy bags and small leather goods with an urban-minimalist design), Maison Etnad (proposal of bags in unique pieces), Hug & Hum (Belgian fashion brand of knitwear and accessories made of sustainable baby alpaca), Insane in the Rain ( conscious brand, which produces ecological rainwear), Covrt Project (English label specialized in accessories and sunglasses).
At this edition, on Friday 22nd February at 12.30pm, Claudio Betti, founder of the SPINNAKER store, rewards the INSIDE brand that receives as a prize an exhibition space for the next edition of WHITE September 2020.
THE CULTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY: GIVE A FOKus, WHITE Milano cultural hub
Give a FOKus, the hub dedicated to sustainable innovation that was launched at the February 2019 edition, is back in partnership with Cittadellarte – Fondazione Pistoletto and Fashion Revolution in order to inform about two of the most polluting stages in textile production: the development of the fabric and the dying and finishing stage, which on average account for more than 30% of the total footprint of an apparel item. A project developed thanks to the support by Albini Group and Boyish Jeans.
The exhibiting area opens with Get in Sync Shade, an installation by Drawlight designed to reveal, through a light mapping, the elements and the processes involved in the production and dying of the fabrics, which directly impacts the environment, the people and, ultimately, the climate.
Get in Sync Shade is therefore preparatory to the discovery of the Tex Lounge, in which the visitors can have a one-of-a-kind sensorial experience, getting to know non-conventional and sustainable fabrics, dyes and fibres, like the organic and traceable fabrics by Albini Group, the dying techniques employed by the Padua-based L.I.M., with innovative material like chocolate and coffee, the ground-breaking finishing processes of the brand Boyish Jeans and the natural dyes of Phillacolor, developed by textile designer Laura Cortinovis. A path to discover the impact of these materials on the environment, on society as a whole, as well as on our skin, so as to rediscover a connection with the true essence of the substances, the pigments and the fibre chosen to fashion the garments we wear.
Awareness is the starting point to trigger a systemic fashion revolution, which is also represented by 10 innovative start-ups, the WSM Smart Contest finalists, coordinated by Prof Francesca Romana Rinaldi, whom the second part of Give a FOKus is dedicated. Ten expressions of a new way of conceiving the fashion system, which needs to be radically reengineered, starting from the farming methods / the making of the fibres, down to distribution and post-consumption.
These 10 start-ups, bound to change the panorama of fashion production and fruition, went on stage of the WSM Smart Contest to tell their story in front of a big audience and a jury of experts. Although all of these projects were extremely convincing, two of them won:
ACBC– winner of the product category, realizes modular sneakers with interchangeable shoe upper making sure that ethics and aesthetics go hand in hand;
Staiy. – Winner of the service category – is the online platform, founded in 2019, that offers, along with a series of sustainable unisex fashion brands, a customized experience powered by artificial intelligence.
WHITE has decided to support the UNO 17 sustainable development goals, which has led to an evaluation to understand which of the exhibiting brands have accomplished certified projects aiming to reduce their footprint and / or maximize the social value through their collections. The outcome already counts 73 businesses at the trade show with excellences ranging from Blue of a Kind, Boyish Jeans, Closed, Insane in the Rain, down to Ibrigu, LaMilanesa Made in Milan, WRÅD, Made for a Woman and Regenesi, which can boast a wealth of novelties like the initiative “ Regenerate your jeans” dedicated to the retailers, and Re-Flag, collection of bags made from a fabric obtained 100% by recycling plastic bottles. Among the several sustainable projects, THE SUSTAINABLE is certainly worth a mention, as it is the first showroom and agency to have focused on sustainable brands. THE SUSTAINABLE is going to showcase an important selection of labels: KM by Lange, Calla, ZAMT, Mia Larsson, 91LAB, Ochis Eyewear and Devo Home, to mention just a few.
On the wake of WSM Fashion Reboot success, the collaboration with Camera Buyer Italia – CBI, the store SPINNAKER in Sanremo, and WHITE Milano goes on. In furtherance of the project Fashion for Planet, the boutique SPINNAKER owned by Claudio Betti is going to host 10 sustainable designers, dedicating its store windows to the 10 creatives selected during the Festival di Sanremo, from 4th to 8th February 2020. Some of the protagonists of this project are: Gilberto Calzolari, ACBC, Awareness Infinitum, WRÅD, Flavialarocca, Yekaterina Ivankova, Blue of a Kind, Boyish Jeans and Vitelli. These same labels will also be on show in a dedicated window at Tortona 31 Archiproducts, during WHITE, from 20th al 23rd February 2020. What’s more, through CBI’s network, the brands are associated with other best shops so as to enhance the communication and awareness on the theme of sustainability. These the boutiques associated to the brands: Papini (Catania), Suit (Lecce), Monti (Cesena), Velashop (Cagliari), Il Cortile (Novara), Mimma Ninni (Bari), Satu (Piacenza), Dolci Trame (Siena), 13 metriquadri (Bellaria) and Penelope (Brescia).
The initiative enjoys the support coming from the prestige of the renowned Italian fashion maison Salvatore Ferragamo, so committed to sustainability that they have made it their corporate philosophy.
So Claudio Betti, owner of SPINNAKER: “Thanks to the collaboration between Spinnaker, CBI (Camera Buyer Italia), and WHITE Milano we want to present the projects in which fashion and sustainability strike the right balance. During the Festival di Sanremo 10 prestigious windows will lend the designers proper visibility. Moreover, all the brands involved will be supported by ten
Best Shops. I believe there is still a long way to go, also from a cultural perspective, to support end-users in their ethical purchases”. CBI, through the multibrand windows of their partners is for sure one of the frontliner players in the fashion system, it can therefore make a precious contribution in terms of dissemination and awareness. That’s why I want to thank WHITE Milano for supporting the creatives who have made sustainability the priority in their collections, and Camera Buyer Italia that promotes such projects through its partners, on this occasion, 10 stores and 10 designers who have been called to join forces in Sanremo!”
Francesco Tombolini, President of Camera Buyer Italia, wants to thank WHITE warmly: “Thank you for the constant focus on the Italian buyers and the valuable involvement in international projects like the one organized by Spinnaker during
Sanremo, and subsequently in Milan during the womenswear fashion week, which will involve many other The Best Shops windows owned by CBI’s associates!”
FOCUS ON BUYER-ORIENTED PATHS
Lastly, focus on the buyer-oriented paths exploring different themes in the several venues of the trade show, so as to inspire the buyers: from Knitwear to the must-haves for the Winter season, down to a wide-ranging selection of accessories (bags and footwear).
Knitwear takes center stage with a selection of true knitwear brands, encompassing timeless and classic garments as well as the most sophisticated cashmere yarns and special workmanship. Furthermore a range of brands starring sweaters and accessories for the winter season. The knitwear path starts with TUINCH. Kujten Cashmere Paris is a label set up by Carole Benaroya and Stephanie Eriksson, who have chosen to select and produce their cashmere in Mongolia, where, as they have ascertained, animals have been raised and shorn cruelty-free for generations. Between Mongolia, China and London, Cocoa Cashmere London combines first-rate materials and a trustworthy production chain to create cashmere garments with a happy-go-lucky and playful image. Another tale of heritage and innovation is Alpha Studio, which can boast 30 years of history, timeless elegance and state-of-the-art jacquard details. Talking about timeless garments C.T. Plage with its essential sweaters and warm hues. The brand was founded by the Japanese duo Suwa Naomi and Kanaya Mikako launched in 2007, who dreamt of fashioning a key apparel garment. In this knitscape, a special mention goes to Roberto Collina, who, from his loft- laboratory in the province of Bologna in 1953, where the company is still headquartered, is still setting the latest trends. Nicki Colombo, established in 1895, combines a centuries-old tradition with leading-edge research, with a sharp eye on the future. Beside the classic cashmere knitwear, the brand parades painstakingly selected yarns and inlays, overlapped textures and asymmetries. Not only sweaters, but also neck warmers, scarves, gloves and soft hats. Knit Knit by Simona Fenaroli, relies on soft materials, vibrant shades and on a fit that naturally and effortlessly enhances femininity. Knitwear and accessories for every season for Moongames, whose priority is recycling. Planting seeds of awareness through fashion is the ambitious goal of Moon Games, debuting Antwerp-based label focusing on highly creative sustainability.
THE UNIVERSE OF ACCESSORIES
Research, quality and functionality mingle in the proposals of legendary Made in Italy maisons and emergent labels. Fabio Rusconi has been making shoes since the late ‘90s and stands out owing to the ability to come up with essential, absolutely elegant reinterpretations of the whole footwear range, from the classic plaited flats, by now best sellers, to the boots and the pumps. The belts, bags and accessories by Gavazzeni stem from a painstaking selection of first-rate leather – as “…we want to be the first to be seduced by the materials we choose” – as well as a passion for details. This family-run business was born in Franciacorta in late ‘70s and is today run by its founders’ offspring. The passion for an essential and bold design is also the cornerstone of Maison Etnad, Spanish brand inspired by the independence of contemporary women, which adapts its design to the raw materials (not the other way round). Imagination in the service of functionality is the blast-off for Jeff Wan’s travel ideas, designer based in New York and originally from Mauritius: each creation carries the distinctive pineapple, plus they all hold and interesting story to tell. The Polish L37 Handmade Shoes draws form another trend: customization, the customers are given the chance to choose the materials and the details of the hand-made footwear, and have their initials embroidered on them. Somehow, accessories should always come as a surprise: so do the unexpected textures of the foulards by Faliero Sarti, born in 1991, who, thanks to his inexhaustible artistic imagination is today the emblem of poetry and traceability. Details can really make a look swim or sink, like the chic subversive gloves by Aristide – French name that, by reinterpreting one single item, spices up the whole wardrobe – and the enamelled jewels by Francesca Bianchi Design, which, with their vibrant geometries, hold a long-standing goldsmith tradition in the vision of a young creative. Looking ahead is paramount, but with a sharp eye on the safeguard of a heritage of craftsmanship and expertise: the scarves by PIN 1876 by Botto Giuseppe harness the century-old textile family tradition to fashion a superb line of accessories that are fully made in Italy. The vintage imagery lives on: tango notes for the hand-crafted models by Lenora Scarpe di lusso, luxury, romantic, and confortable shoes for dancing and more, like the iconic Fracap boots with trekking hooks, hand-made by the brothers Cappello, whose family tradition dates back to the start of the previous century in Monteroni. Scandicci is the birthplace of Capaf’s timeless classics: hand-woven raffia, jute and wicker purses, clutches and basket handbags. Furthermore, it is nice to see how aesthetics is bonding up with ethics. In the bags by Pipatchara the premium Italian leather is sublimated through plaited details, which are hand-made by communities of craftsmen in Thailand, land of origin of the two founding sisters. The return to an ancestral creativity with humble materials for more environmentally-friendly consumption is the way to go for Good People, brand that crafts bags in rough natural fibres and, thereby, supports a number of communities of women across the universe. A parallel philosophy for Made For A Woman by Eileen Akbaraly, established in 2018, the label, indeed, aims to assist the empowerment of Madagascar’s rural dwellers through the creation of raffia products.
For more information: Raffaella Imò
Press Office Manager WHITE
Tel +39 02 34592785